Caviar
Fresh local ingredients?
Well, caviar has come a long way.
At the beginning for us it was always Petrossian from Paris. We were crappy caterers on the rim of the
world, struggling to pay the rent, but we had an account with Petrossian, and
they remembered us when we called.
Brendan was early on warped by our obsession. When he was two or three, his mom went to
visit in Ohio and left Brendan with Valentine and I for a couple of weeks. We were dead broke, but we had a party coming
up at the Museum of Art at La Mirada. A
bunch of Russian folk singers were touring the US on the Russians’ dime, and
were doing a small appearance at La Mirada.
Who doesn’t love caviar? We had 100 guests, so we ordered a
five pound tin each of beluga, ossetra and sevruga. Plus some salmon eggs, of course. And a case of eggs. And lots of good vodka we froze in blocks of
ice decorated with nasturtiums. And
bubbly.
The party was fun.
The Russkies sang a short song or two.
Then Miles our folksinging buddy piped up with a tribute Russian folk
song of his own. It was quite the song,
and went on and on. All in Russian. Good on ya, Miles!
Our barman that day was Slab….Steve Thomas of Jack’s, Bud’s
Pub, the Red Lion, etc. Miles came up to
Slab’s bar all chuffed and happy with himself.
“What did you think, Slab?”
Slab: “Was that Russian for InAGoddaDaViva?”
Ooof.
Meanwhile, our afternoon caviar/vodka/champagne party didn’t
match up to the Monterey social schedule.
Vodka and fish eggs in daylight?
Nah. The Russians and the
caterers (and Glenn Hammer) did our fair share, but we were left with pretty
much six kilos of fine Petrossian caviar, a case of eggs, a lake of frozen
vodka, a pile of Gruet and a couple of hundred blini.
And we were broke.
Valentine, Brendan and I repaired to 12 Flight with our
stash…..and dined on little else for two weeks. The wild rice blini disappeared
quickly, so Brendan was given the job of keeping the toast coming. Hey! He was two and a half! And loved toast! Figure it out, boy!
The thirty month old quickly got his toast points down. Lightly toasted, lightly buttered, quartered
at angles, crust trimmed. A lot of work,
and delicious, and disappeared instantly.
The upshot of the two weeks was a weird addition to our
philosophy, and especially Brendan’s: there is always caviar….the good toast is
what always runs out.
Brendan went on to perfect not just the toast, but the soft
scrambled eggs that go along best.
Wild Rice Blini
¼ cup milk One egg
¼ cup water 2 Tb
overcooked wild rice
¼ cup flour salt
and white pepper.
Blend all the ingredients with an immersion blender. Set aside (overnight is fine, but for at
least an hour if possible). The batter
should be thin.
We use an antique cast iron blini pan, but normal households
can us a good small Teflon omelette pan. Or pans (you should be able to do two
or three at once if you have the pans).
Heat the pan to smoking hot.
Add a tiny drop of grapeseed oil. Add an ounce of batter to the center
of the pan and quickly move it in a circle to distribute the batter. We have a folded towel next to the stove to
bang the pan on….when the crepe/blini is cooked and loose, bang it on the towel
and flip it. Finish cooking it for a few
seconds, toss it on a warm napkin and repeat.
Make sure the pan reheats enough between blini.
Photo of Juan with cast iron.
Brendan’s scrambled eggs…..
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